For those that know me well, I tend to be inspired by recipes, but go off the rails in the execution. In the kitchen, I'm a bit of a rebel ... I like to do my own thing, add my own spin, etc. Inspired by the corn-and-tomato-pie recipe I linked to a couple of weeks ago, I took its essence and flipped it on its head. Instead of a chunky, hearty filling, I made a simple corn custard that was poured over caramelized onions that covered the bottom of a pre-baked tart shell. Then I added some unadorned, but glorious-in-their-own-right, sungold and candy tomatoes to the pool of custard. Baked for 40 minutes, the pie came out of the oven slightly puffed and golden. We ate it at room temperature with super-sweet muskmelon, but it would be great served warm as well. After an afternoon at the pool, it definitely hit the spot.

Corn Custard and Tomato Tart
serves 2 hungry bambini and mom and pop, too

Ingredients:
1 basic pie or tart crust recipe; I used the 9-inch pie crust recipe from Cook's Illustrated
1 large sweet onion, sliced into half moons
1 bunch of fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ears sweet corn,
1/4 cup whole milk or heavy cream
1/2 cup creme fraiche
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon kosher salt
ground black pepper to taste
1/2 pint assorted cherry/grape tomatoes -- I used sungold and baby candy, but feel free to use any grape or cherry tomatoes you have!

Directions
Pre-bake the tart shell according to your recipe. Set aside to cool.
Adjust the heat of your oven to 375 degrees.

In a large saute pan over medium-low heat, heat the olive oil and thyme until fragrant. Add the onions, with a large pinch of salt and some freshly ground black pepper and cook low and slow until the onions are caramelized and sweet -- about 20-30 minutes. Set aside to cool.

While the onions are cooking, make the corn custard. Cut the kernels from the cob and place ikernels in a blender with the 1/4 cup milk or cream. Puree until smooth. Pour the puree through a fine mesh sieve or chinois. To the strained puree, whisk the creme fraiche, egg yolks, salt and pepper until incorporated. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.

Layer the cool onions on the bottom of the tart shell. Pour the custard over the onions (don't pour the custard to the rim of the tart; leave about a 1/4 gap). Nestle the tomatoes in the custard and carefully transfer the tart to the oven (I place on a baking sheet first). Bake for 40 minutes, until golden and puffed adn the custard to set, but still wobbly.

Cool until warm or leave at room temperature.

Happy eating, -s.
tomato caprese salad with sherry vinegar and olive oil

Hello, September! You're looking good.

With Rhys starting kindergarten and James starting preschool, it's been a busy, emotional week. Comfort food has been in order: I slow-cooked a pork shoulder in salsa verde on Tuesday for tacos and later for Cuban sandwiches. Sweet corn got sauteed with basil, red onion, poblanos and sungold tomatoes (and a healthy dose of heavy cream) for a pasta dish on Thursday. Salmon burgers rounded out the week, highlighted with a smoky paprika mayo and a thick slice of tomato. It may not cure every bump, bruise or blue moment, but food is a powerful curative when you need that little something to ease you through a tough day.

p.s. here's a song to start the weekend. kick your heels up!

p.p.s. to prep for fall cooking, here's a wish-list of cookbooks I want to read and cook from:
 
 
p.p.p.s. Quote of the week:  A good heavy book holds you down. It's an anchor that keeps you from getting up and having another gin and tonic. -Roy Blount, Jr.

p.p.p.p.s for breakfast this weekend, make my "breakfast crisp" - apricots, peaches or blueberries work great and are in season.


peach breakfast crisp ... ready to eat
Breakfast Crisp a.k.a dessert for breakfast
serves many hungry bambini

Ingredients
For crisp topping
6 tablespoons whole-wheat pastry flour
2/3 cup rolled oats
1/3 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup turbinado sugar (white sugar works too)
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup sliced almonds
1 stick of butter, cubed and kept very cold

For fruit
2 lbs ripe fruit - blueberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, nectarines (peel and cut the stone fruit into 1-inch cubes)
1/4 cup sugar
juice of half of a lemon
zest from whole lemon (I use a microplane)
1 tablespoon for cornstarch

Directions
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In the bowl of a food processor, place the first seven ingredients for the crisp. Pulse a few times to incorporate. Add nuts and butter and pulse until the crisp topping starts coming together, with most of the dry ingredients incorporated into the butter. Place in the refrigertator to chill for at least 15 minutes.

While the topping is chilling, prep the fruit. For stone fruit, you will need to blanch the fruit to remove the peel.  Once that is done, remove the stone and cut the fruit into roughly 1-inch pieces - these do not need to be exact. Berried need just a rinse and drain before proceeding.

Once the fruit is prepped, place in a large bowl with the sugar, lemon juice and zest, and cornstarch. Stir until combine and let macerate for at least 5 minutes before pouring into a large glass or ceramic baking dish (I used a 7"x 12" pyrex dish). Top with the crisp topping and bake until golden brown and bubbly, about 30-40 minutes.

Let cool for at least 10 minutes on a rack. Serve with big dollops of Greek yogurt (or ice cream later in the day).

Happy eating, -s.
summer on a plate
I am utterly in love with latkes, but come summer, potatoes get replaced by zucchini. With six, plump beauties waiting their turn in the crisper, I knew what I was making for dinner: zucchini pancakes. As with most recipes from Marc Bittman, I modified things a bit. Using his recipes as a spring board, I changed up a few things, like squeezing the grated zucchini of its moisture, cutting out the minced onion and adding chopped basil to the mixture. Be forewarned, these are delicate little fritters; I used my All-Clad saute pan with success (a.k.a. no sticking), but if you have a non-stick pan, I would use it. I use this small scoop to make bite-size cakes, but feel free to make this bigger too -- just cook them a bit longer to cook off the raw egg. A dollop of chive sour cream adorned each latke. 

Happy eating, -s.
I'm not a big baker or a big chocolate or dessert lover. Give me a bowl of ice cream, a cookie or some Haribo gummy bears and I'm a happy girl. Now, this is a bit of a problem since I am married to a chocolate lover and my first-born would take anything coated, drenched, submerged and sauced in chocolate. James's love-affair with sweets is still developing, but the way he tore into his birthday cupcake makes me think I'm in for a rude awakening.

When it comes to desserts, I like homey, simple, seasonal treats: citrus in the winter; rhubarb and strawberries in the spring, berries, peaches and plums in the summer and apples and figs in the fall. Below are a collection of winter desserts right up my alley: simple, elegant, fresh and fuss-free.

grapefruit curd from Two Tarts
 
pavlova with vanilla-poached oranges from Martha Stewart
 
grapefruit olive-oil cake from The Yellow House
 
lemon pudding from Gourmet magazine

Here's what we're eating this week ...

menu: week of 19 January 2013
Saturday: pork & ricotta meatballs with sautéed green cabbage
Sunday: roasted chicken breasts with mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach
Monday: bean and barley soup with cured pork belly; served with seeded bread and butter
Tuesday: chicken and broccoli divan
Wednesday: pork and snow-pea stir-fry
Thursday: tortellini en brodo with spinach and peas
Friday: pizza night

Happy eating, -s.
Brrr. Jack Frost and his gang of ne’er-do-wells gave Madison quite the sugar-coating of snow, ice and frigid temps this past week. Pickle has been in high heaven "helping" Chris shovel the snow. He would be outside all day if we let him, but it's been too cold to stay out for more than a few minutes.

I've been baking a lot — which is not the norm in our house (I'm a cook, not a baker) — but the holidays scream for homemade treats, don't you think? All this baking has left very little time for cooking, so our menus have been taking a more simplistic slant the last couple of weeks and probably will continue to do so until Christmas is over.

I thought I would share with you some quick tips and tricks to have on hand during the holidays that will help you avoid running to the grocery store every day! These will provide instant platforms on which to build hors d'oeuvres, desserts, potluck fare, etc.

In the freezer:

Puff pastry – this is my go-to staple for many things and there is nothing better to have on hand to elevate a dish than buttery, crisp puff pastry. I use Pepperidge farm or Trader Joe’s most of the time. You've seen my tarts, which would be great cut into strips for a passed hors d'oeuvre. For dessert, make some pastry cream and spread that on a sheet of puff pastry (leave a 1/2-inch border), bake for 20-30 minutes at 350 degrees until golden and when cool, top with raspberries and dust with powder sugar for a perfect, easy and festive dessert.

Filo cups – These gorgeous little cups need just a brushing of butter and a filling of grated cheese (Pleasant Ridge Reserve, gruyere, sharp white cheddar), some caramelized onions and either some chopped prosciutto or cooked, crumbled bacon to make the most divine little mouthful. Just bake at 350 degrees until bubbly and golden brown. Serve hot.

In the fridge:

Cream cheese – set out at room temperature and slather with one of the following: chutney, salty, toasted pecans and apricot preserves, jalapeño jam, or gorgeous lump crab and cocktail sauce (a retro classic). Serve with crackers, crudités and/or crunchy crostini.

Smoked salmon (lox-style)– topped with lemon-zest scented crème fraîche and placed on a pumpernickel crostini; add it to a simple frittata for a perfect addition to a buffet; or showcase it on a tray with cornichon, capers, wafer-thin slices of red onion and cream cheese. Serve it with homemade or store-bought bagel chips and water crackers – perfect for brunch or a cocktail party (screams for Champagne!)

Champagne or Prosecco – nothing says “party” like a bottle of bubbly. Have a few bottles on hand for hostess gifts or to crack open when the tree is decorated, the presents are wrapped or the guests have gone home!

Menu: week of 13 December 2009:

Sunday: whole-wheat panko-crusted chicken cutlets with a fennel, apple & walnut salad in a sherry-maple vinaigrette
Monday: potato, rosemary and garlic pizza
Tuesday: salmon cakes with mixed greens vinaigrette (applesauce for Pickle)
Wednesday: turkey kofte with a side of whole-wheat sesame noodles with broccoli
Thursday: stewed white beans with tomatoes and thyme served on top of bruschetta
Friday: carry out and a movie
Saturday: holiday dinner group

Happy eating, -s.
Growing up, Friday night was pizza night. My mom would make a half-sheet-pan-sized pizza with lots of veggies and pepperoni. It was the only night that we got to have a juice-glass filled with Coke. A pretty magical evening, as you can imagine. Talking to friends, they too had pizza nights as kids. At the park recently, Chris, Pickle and I met a little girl who was quite the conversationalist; as we pushed Pickle on the swing, she inquired about many things including what we were going to be for Halloween (she was going as a witch or a mermaid) and what we were having for dinner. She told us that, "as she was Italian," her family had pizza night every week and that her favorite was sausage and pepperoni. So, the trend continues (Italian or not!) decades later, which makes me happy.

I've been working on a whole-wheat crust recipe lately; trying to make eating pizza a more healthful endeavour. Using 100% whole-wheat flour has not been working for me; the texture is just not right. So, with Heidi Swanson's white whole-wheat crust recipe in one hand and the Cook's Illustrated classic in the other, I set about making a big batch of dough that would crisp and chew in all the right places, while still containing a good ratio of whole-wheat flour to white. Our potato pizza on Sunday was my first go and I have to say — and I'm not exaggerating* — it was the best dough I've made. The exterior was crispy while the interior had a satisfying chew.

This recipe makes two large rectangular pizzas (the goal is to have leftovers); freeze one ball or refrigerate it for pizza later in the week — yes, two pizza nights in one week is okay!

Sarah's whole-wheat pizza dough
makes enough for two, 11x14-inch pizzas or four, 12-inch round pizzas

Ingredients:
2 1/2 cups white whole-wheat flour — I used King Arthur
2 cups white bread flour — again, King Arthur
1 teaspoon rapid-rise yeast
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 3/4 cup room temperature water
1/4 cup olive oil and more for oiling the bowl

Directions:
In the bowl of a food processor, add both flours, salt and yeast; pulse to combine (the bowl will be really full). Measure the water and oil in the same cup and with the machine running, pour the liquids into the dry ingredients. Once the dough creates a cohesive ball, let the machine run for 30 seconds.

Remove to a floured board or counter and knead with your hands for 5 minutes (a good upper-body workout). The ball should be smooth and supple. Cut into two equal piece. Place one in a Ziploc bag and the other in an oiled bowl. Place the bagged dough in the fridge or freezer for later use. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise for 2-3 hours, until double in volume.

When you are ready to assemble the pizza, slowly stretch the dough by hand, letting it rest if it is not yielding. Once it is the size you need, place on a cornmeal dusted pan and adorn with your choice of sauce and toppings. Bake on the bottom rack of a 450-degree, preheated oven for roughly 15 minutes.

Happy eating, -s.

*I am a known and admitted over-exaggerator, coming from a long line of overreactors, hypochondriacs and drama-queens. If it happened once or twice, to me it's happened a million times. If you have a cough, you are dying and should rush to the doctor. If I love something or someone, it L-O-V-E, love, so watch out! But, that just means I'm passionate about everything that matters. :)
One of Pickle's favorite things to eat at Café Soleil is their herbed chevre croissant. While I wish I could craft these gorgeous, cheesy, roasted tomato-stuffed delights at home, I am not a pastry chef, but I am a mom who loves to recreate beloved foodstuff while simplifying the process. I've replaced handcrafted croissant dough with frozen puff pastry and swapped the oven-dried tomatoes with sauteed ones. It is a spot-on rendition in taste, but not shape.

Market Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart

Ingredients:
1 sheet puff pastry, defrosted in the fridge
1 large, in-season tomato or 3 roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 clove garlic, minced or grated on a microplane
1 tablesppon thyme leaves
1 tablespoon olive or grapeseed oil
kosher salt and fresh black pepper to taste
4 oz fresh goat cheese, at room temperature – I use the fabulously creamy DreamFarm chevre
4 oz, grated nutty, aged cheese, like Pleasant Ridge Reserve or Marieke Gouda
1 egg, whisked with 1 teaspoon water

Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Heat oil over medium heat until shimmery. Add tomatoes and saute until juices start to run.
Add garlic and thyme and cook another minute.
Remove from heat to cool.
On a flour-dusted counter or board, roll out puff pastry until its roughly 14 inches by 11 inches. Chill for 15 minutes it if gets too soft. Cut pastry in half. Score a 1/2 border on one piece of pastry. In the inside rectangle, spread goat cheese over entire surface. Place back in the refrigerators until the tomatoes are ready.

Spread tomatoes over the goat cheese and then sprinkle with the grated cheese. Egg wash the border left on the puff pastry and then top it with the other piece. Press and seal edges together, then use a pastry wheel to cut the egdes so they look uniform. if you don't have a pastry wheel, a knife will work too. Cut three small slits on the top to allow steam to escape. Egg wash the entire tart and place in the preheated oven for 18 minutes, or until golden brown and puffed.

Cut into individual portions.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Happy 4th of July. Pickle has been sicker than a dog (such a strange expression; what does that mean, exactly?) and this weekend has been all about taking care of him and his poor, afflicted GI track until today: today he is finally feeling better and acting a little bit more like himself. Hurrah! That means he's taking a good nap and I am cooking up a storm. But first, here's what was in our CSA box this time:

In our CSA box:
all-red potatoes – red on the outside and pink on the inside (how cool!)
broccoli
chard
cilantro
flat-leaf parsley
garlic scapes
romaine lettuce
snow peas
strawberries
sugar-snap peas
yellow summer squash
zucchini

Menu: week of 4 July 2009
Saturday: 7-hour roasted pulled pork sandwiches with creamy cole slaw and corn bread
Sunday: burgers on the grill with quick zucchini pickles and roasted all-red potatoes
Monday: shredded pork tacos with avocado and green salsa with a cumin black-bean salad
Tuesday: beef and snow peas with steamed rice
Wednesday: roasted veggie pasta with cilantro-pumpkin seed pesto
Thursday: sesame soba noodles with steamed broccoli
Friday: day of rest

So, here's what I've been cooking this morning (when you're up at 5 a.m. you can get a lot done by 9:30):

Cream crackers with garlic and parsley – I really loathe giving Pickle things chocked full of preservatives, especially when I can make them at home. Store-bought crackers are culprits of the high-fructose corn syrup, calcium propionate, disodium EDTA preservative craze. I know that preservatives keep things fresh and I know that I've eaten my fair share of preservatives, but when you can easily avoid them, why not?

Chris was craving a donut this morning (I made him get some yesterday when he ran out for coffee filters; I know, bad), but instead of running out for more, I opted to make some buttermilk biscuits with fresh ricotta and a quick strawberry "jam." How good does that sound? Better than a donut!

The buttermilk biscuits are from Marc Bittman's How to Cook Everything, the ricotta is Grande Ricotta Del Pastaio (Wisconsin-made) and the jam is something I made up.

The jam utilizes some gnarly strawberries that we got in our CSA box last week. While they taste good, they weren't so pretty so I blitzed them in the mini food processor and cooked them down until they were thick and shiny.

Quick Strawberry Jam
Ingredients
1 cup stemmed and halved strawberries
2 tablespoons sugar
a pinch of salt
Directions
In the bowl of a food processor, place berries and sugar. Pulse until nice and chunky (about 5, 1-second pulses). Scrape contents into a small saucepan and cook over medium heat until reduced and thick and glossy.
Cool slightly. Spoon onto biscuits, ice cream, pound cake, yogurt ... yum.