holiday entertaining: the dinner party

 detritus of a good party: one of my favorite sights

Pre-kiddos, Chris and I used to host a holiday party every year — with loads of cocktails and hors d’oeuvres — for 20 or so friends and co-workers. That annual bacchanalia took a backseat once Rhys and then James arrived. Aching to cook for grown-ups again and wanting to have a little fun this holiday season, we decided to host an intimate dinner party with some close friends.

What I’ve learned over the years of entertaining is this: prepping as much beforehand is the key to enjoying the party yourself. This isn’t a new idea; many professional chefs have based careers and cookbooks off of this thought, but I also think that keeping the menu simple is another key to success. I don’t like multiple courses, but I think having a salad or soup before the main course is a nice way to extend the meal without being too fussy. This time of year, I really love that dessert can be a tray of homemade Christmas cookies and some delicious coffee.

The evening was full of warmth, love and joviality — Chris and I feel very lucky to have such friends. Happy holidays indeed.

Here’s the menu — special enough for Christmas dinner, in case you need inspiration:

Cocktails: Champagne, craft beers and gougeres

Salad: mixed greens with mustard vinaigrette, candied pecans spiced with cinnamon and coriander, dried cranberries and French feta

Dinner: French pork stew with brandy and prunes (From Cook’s Illustrated Best Recipe cookbook), served with crème fraiche mashed potatoes

Dessert: assorted Christmas cookies; I made these:

Mexican wedding cakes
Buckeyes (controversially dipped only half-way in bittersweet chocolate)
Coconut macaroon sandwiches with lime curd
Chewy, triple-ginger cookies
Fig bars

happy eating and much peace in the new year, -s. 

p.s. my heart aches for the families of those who lost their lives on Friday in Newtown, CT. Hug and kiss those you love and let us change our gun laws now before another senseless tragedy occurs.  What terrible loss of beautiful, precious, innocent life.

holiday entertaining: gougeres

from Martha Stewart

The more I entertain, the more I realize that simple is better. A multi-course spectacle doesn’t really allow anyone to unbutton and relax. Starting with a single rich nosh and some bubbly helps the evening to unfurl gracefully — without eating too much to really enjoy dinner. My go-to hors d’oeuvre is the gougeres, or cheese puff for those who don’t parlez vous francais.

Gougeres starts with the classic pate choux — a paste of flour, water, butter and eggs. This simple mixture is the start for not only gougeres, but éclairs too. Fold nutty gruyere into the batter and you have the foundation for gougeres. From there you can elevate them with some key add-ins: minced chipotle chiles, Serrano ham, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, etc. Once they hit the hot oven, they do just as their name indicates — they puff and crisp into golden orbs that are fairly addictive — so plan for several batches before dinner for a group of 10 or so.

My go-to recipe is from Martha Stewart – I love that you can make them ahead and reheat right before the party starts.

Happy eating, -s.

most thankful

 

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday, as it is singularly focused on food and wine. Nothing better in my opinion! We will be heading to my childhood home to be with family and eat my mom's amazing food. Since the kiddos are slowly outnumbering the adults, I am bringing some kid-friendly snacks to tide us over until dinner, mainly coconut-oil-popped popcorn and sugar-glazed rosemary and cayenne-spiked nuts.

We've had a tough year and it's not over, but I'm so thankful for so many things. So thankful for our warm and cozy home. So thankful that I can nourish my boys with the food I make ... food that's full of love and other good stuff. So thankful for my strong, amazingly talented husband. So thankful for good friends who check in on me. So thankful for 332 electoral votes. So thankful that people still want to help those who cannot help themselves. 

Have a beautiful Thanksgiving.
Happy eating, -s.

What we’re eating this week: 12 November 2012

I missed the last outdoor farmers’ market due to traveling this past weekend. Not the end of the world; I had stocked up enough on winter pantry staples the weekend prior that I’m set to go for this week as well — winter squashes, onions, potatoes, apples and herbs. I was gifted a huge bunch of kale from a generous co-worker, so we had some fresh greens too.

We have a crazy-busy schedule this week; not untypical, but more logistically challenging for some reason. I don’t know what my deal was, but I had a little ADD trying to focus on a healthful menu that wasn’t too tasking for the busy week ahead. Some evening prep was necessary, but nothing elaborate; I made a big batch of white beans for Wednesday and Thursday’s dinners, so there’s a two-for-one deal going on there, too. I also used some arugula pesto frozen during our warm fall as a stand-in to traditional pistou for the soupe. Friday's dinner is my riff on a delicious noodle dish from my favorite Lao/Thai restaurant, Lao Laan Xang. Without further ado, here’s what we’re eating this week.

Menu: week of 12 November 2012

Monday: pasta with sautéed Italian sausage and kale
Tuesday: breaded pork cutlets with apple-fennel slaw with roasted almonds
Wednesday: cold weather soupe au pistou with crusty bread
Thursday: stewed white beans with toasted bread crumbs; served with steamed broccoli
Friday:  fresh rice noodles with ground pork, red curry-coconut sauce, and feathery, wilted cabbage

Happy eating, -s. 

at the market and what we're eating this week

before the frost: flowering pineapple sage in my yard

It was the second to the last farmers' market of the season on Saturday; a little bittersweet. While our farmers' markets heads indoors over the cold Wisconsin winter, there's nothing like the fresh air and good smells of the outdoor market to get you inspired to cook.

I slow-cooked a pork shoulder roast on Sunday to provide us with a few meaty meals throughout the week — tacos with cilantro, white onion and avocado, empanadas with hard-boiled eggs, golden raisins and green olives, and twice-cooked pork with black beans and rice. Interlaced, will be some vegetable-heavy meals to highlight our farmers' market bounty — winter squash gratin, potato-rosemary pizza, stir-fried Chinese broccoli and chicken with jasmine rice.

at the market:
apples
arugula
broccoli
carrots
Chinese broccoli
cilantro
cranberries
garlic
Italian flat-leaf parsley
 

rosemary and flowering oregano in my garden

menu: week of 3 November 2012
Saturday: broccoli, ham and cheese calzones with salsa cruda
Sunday: pork shoulder tacos with cilantro, red onion and avocado
Monday: twice-cooked pork shoulder with black beans and rice
Tuesday: winter squash gratin with mixed greens
Wednesday: empanadas with stewed pork, hard-boiled eggs, golden raisins and green olives; served with homemade applesauce
Thursday: stir-fried Chinese broccoli and chicken with jasmine rice
Friday: potato-rosemary pizza with chevre

happy eating, -s.

garlic "confit"

I love my husband for many reasons, but one of my favorite things about him is his absolute gusto when it comes to eating the foods he loves. Many years ago, early in our relationship, Chris and I went on a weekend jaunt with my sister, Heather, and brother-in-law, Mike. We ate at a delicious Italian restaurant that served, with its homemade ciabatta, a whole head of roasted garlic. Now, Chris LOVES roasted garlic and proceeded to pretty much eat the entire head himself. And the remainder of the trip, he literally permeated garlic from his pores (so much so that we had to open the car windows when driving home). Now, that is love.

On many pizzas in our house, there is no tomato sauce. Instead, I make a garlic paste that gets smeared on the crust before the cheese and toppings are applied. Over the years, I have been frustrated by inconsistent roasting of garlic; I use the same method (lop the head off, place on heavy-duty foil, pour some olive oil on top, a sprinkle of kosher salt and a wrap it up), same temperature (350-degrees), for the same amount of time (2 hours) and for some heads of garlic, they would be over-roasted, with super caramelized, hard cloves encased in their papery shells or the total opposite — under-roasted and still super "garlicky," with none of the inherent sweetness of perfectly roasted garlic. Not sure why — maybe some were older or younger, moister or drier … I’m still trying to figure it out.

Well, through trial and error (and many ruined heads of garlic), I have a pretty fool-proof recipe. It’s a little unorthodox, but it works. Here’s how:

Take one large head of garlic and separate the cloves, while still retaining their individual paper wrappings. Pack the cloves in a small, oven-proof baking dish (a ramekin, etc.) and add 1 tablespoon of water and one tablespoon of olive oil, a sprinkle of kosher salt and wrap everything up in heavy-duty aluminum foil. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours.

The combination of the steamy water and oil softens the garlic slowly and makes peeling the cloves afterwards a dream! They come out soft, roasted and creamy. The remaining garlic infused oil-water is added to the cloves that are then mashed with a fork and seasoned with additional olive oil (to the consistency you want), salt and pepper. 

Try it, you’ll like it. And it’s easy.

Happy eating, -s.

 

 

 

Happy Halloween!

 

Wishing you a spooky, treat-filled Halloween! Boo!

Baby’s got sauce

My baby got sauce
Your baby ain’t sweet like mine
She got sauce
Your baby ain’t sweet like mine
She got sauce...

Sorry, couldn’t resist a little G Love and Special Sauce reference here.

James is currently experience one heck of a bout of separation anxiety. Poor little guy; Chris and I need to carry him constantly or he screams. He screams and wails and flails his arms and doesn’t breathe for 5 seconds. It’s a pretty rough scene, but soon he won’t want us to hold him at all, so I try to empathize while I do everything with one hand, like cooking and buttoning a shirt and putting on make-up — you get the picture; so dinner prep needs to be minimal and all done with babe on hip. Hence, stir-fries.

I have been working on and perfecting my go-to stir-fry sauce. We try to have some stir-fried greens (mustard, Chinese broccoli, kale, arugula, spinach) and a lean protein with brown rice (or my favorite pure-white, no-whole-grain-here jasmine rice) once a week. This is in no way authentic, but it is complex, crowd-pleasing and pantry-friendly.

 

Sarah’s oh-so-special sauce

enough for one stir-fry that serves 4 hungry bambini or adults

Ingredients

2 tablespoons tamari or low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon raw sugar or brown sugar
½ a lime, juiced
½ tablespoon roasted red chile paste
2 cloves garlic, grated on a microplane
1 thumb-sized knob of ginger, grated on microplane
½ teaspoon cornstarch (optional)

Directions
Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl, whisk to break down sugar and chile paste.

Pour onto stir-fry ingredients once they are browned and fully cooked. Cook for 1 minute, until slightly thickened and glossy.  Serve hot.

Happy eating, -s.

welcome back. welcome back, welcome back, welcome back.

I've been away for far too long -- jeez, March was my last post. Really? And it was about booze; fitting given my current situation of being a working mom of two. Whew. Tired just typing that.

For some reason, fall, more than any other season, really gets me excited to cook. Maybe it's because summer is all about fast cooking; eating things in their raw state or quickly cooking them to just enhance their freshness. Fall means roasting, stewing, braising and slowing down. Slowing down ... that sounds nice!

My return will be a slow one. I don't have my cooking act totally back together, but I was so inspired by the market and what I accomplished in the kitchen this weekend that I had to share.

At the market:
Apples -- 6 pounds of glorious orbs: Macoun, Macintosh, Jonagold, Jonathan, Cortland and Spartan.
Apple cider
Arugula
Bell peppers
Carrot
Cilantro
English hothouse cucumber
Italian frying peppers
Mustard greens: purple and green mixed varieties
Sweet corn
Tomatoes: paste, grape and sungold
Parsley
Winter squash: butternut and acorn

What we're eating this week: 30 September 2012
Sunday: Turkey-ricotta meatballs with arugula pesto, homemade applesauce and roasted butternut squash

Monday: Greek-style chicken cutlets with feta, tomatoes and mint; served with whole-grain flatbread and hummus

Tuesday: Burgers on the grill; served carrot and cucumber sticks

Wednesday: Salmon with Indian Spices; served with basmati-rice pilaf

Thursday: Italian wedding soup with mustard greens and leftover turkey meatballs

Friday: Slow-roasted market-tomato and goat cheese pizza; pizza margarita for the kiddos

It's 5 o'clock somewhere ...

Since it is 80 degrees on March 20 (yep, first day of spring!) in Madison, WI, and since I didn't get to drink any summery cocktails last summer because I was pregnant with bambino No. 2, I thought I would share with you my favorite summer cocktails. Honestly, there is nothing better at the end of a hot day than a cocktail on the patio. Cheers.

No. 1: The Dark and Stormy
My dear friend Jen served these at her fabulous wedding many years ago in Maryland. She married a sailor, so the drink was mandatory. Let's just say everyone was dancing by the end of the wedding. Here's a link to Francis Lam's review of some ginger beers/ales. It's funny and informative. I really want to try Blenheim's ginger ale since I like mine really spicy and made in the U.S. 

Makes one perfect cocktail.

Ingredients:
2-3 oz. Gosling's Black Rum
3-4 oz. Ginger Beer or Spicy Ginger Ale (I like Goose Island's spicy ginger ale)
wedge of lime
ice

Directions:
In double old-fashioned glass filled ice, mix rum and ginger beer/ale. Squeeze lime. Enjoy.

No. 2: The Margarita
As I am a big Frontera Grill/Tompolobompo fan, my go-to margarita is from Rick Bayless. No blending, no fuss. Just lime, tequila, Cointreau, sugar, salt and ice.

Makes 4 generous drinks

Ingredients:1 cup tequila, preferably a young silver or reposado 100% agave tequila
1/2 cup Cointreau or other orange liqueur
1/3 cup fresh lime juice, plus a little extra for moistening the rim of the glasses
A little sugar if necessary
About 1/3 cup coarse (Kosher) salt for crusting the rim of the glasses
About 3 cups medium ice cubes

Directions:
In a small pitcher, combine the tequila, orange liqueur and lime. Taste and decide if you think the mixture needs to be a little sweeter or a little tangier (keep in mind that it will taste a little tangier once it’s been shaken). Add a bit more lime or a touch of sugar, if necessary.

Spread out the salt onto a small plate. Moisten the rim of four 6-ounce martini glasses with a little lime juice (if you have a cut lime, even an already-squeezed one, moisten the rims by running it around them). One by one, turn the glasses over and dip them lightly in the salt, creating a thin, even crust all around the rim.

Pour half of the margarita mixture into a cocktail shaker, add half of the ice cubes. Shake vigorously for about 15 seconds (this is important to achieve the perfect strength–some of the ice needs to melt into the margarita–and the right degree of frostiness). Strain into the prepared glasses, then repeat with the remaining margarita mixture. Relax and enjoy.

No. 3: the Vodka Tonic
I love me some vodka. This was my drink of choice when I met my husband. I like mine with a squeeze of lemon instead of the classic lime, but choose the citrus you like best. Meyer lemons, when in season, elevate this drink to sublime.

Makes one perfect cocktail.

Ingredients:
2 oz. Vodka, the best you can afford
4 oz. tonic water
wedge of lemon or lime
ice

Directions:
In an old-fashioned glass filled ice, mix vodka and tonic. Squeeze citrus. Enjoy.

No. 4: the Mojito
I honestly grow mint for mojitos. What's more refreshing than lime, mint and rum? My husband makes the best ones. I'm sure I've missed some secret step, but here's what I have observed him do when making one.

Makes one perfect cocktail.

Ingredients:
1/4 cup or 4 oz. white rum, the best you can afford
half of a lime, cut into four pieces
12-15 mint leaves2 tablespoons simple syrup
4 oz. club soda
ice

Directions:
In a double old-fashioned glass, place mint, limes and simple syrup. Muddle with a muddler or a wooden spoon handle, or a wooden lemon reamer, until the mint and limes start breaking up a bit. Add ice, rum and top with club soda. Stir well. Drink slowly - this is a labor of love.

Happy drinking, -s.

winter pizza margarita

Our little family's favorite lunch spot is Pizza Brutta. Pickle will eat an entire pizza Margarita (minus the crust, which is my favorite part, so it works). He loves watching them assemble the pizza, place it in the 700+ degree wood-fired oven and cut it and serve it to us ("here it comes, momma!").

So, it was only natural that I try to re-create a version of their pizza Margarita at home -- minus the stunning wood-burning oven. Okay, I admit the crust is so not the same, but the essence is true and Pickle loves it just as much.  

It's simple as can be to make, especially if you have the dough for the crust already made. Peter Reinhart's recipe is impeccable -- a must try. I typically free-form this on an aluminum baking sheet.

This is a great, after-work pizza, since there is little to prep. Walk in the door and, before you even take your coat off, preheat your oven to 500 degrees F.  Pour a glass of wine, put on some music and start making the pizza! I serve this with an apple-celery salad with raisins and toasted almonds. More on that another time.

Pizza Margarita
serves 4 adults or 1 hungry bambino

Ingredients
1 large ball of pizza dough
2 cups shredded, whole-milk mozzarella
28 oz. can of San Marzano tomatoes, drained
1 small clove of garlic, sliced
1/8 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
6-8 fresh basil leaves,torn into large pieces.

Directions
Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Place a rack on the lowest level of the oven.

On a floured surface, roll or press out dough to the desired size -- about 14-inches round or a 11 x 14 inch rectangle. Place on your baking sheet.

In the bowl of a food processor or blender, add the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper and olive oil. Process until the sauce it smooth and voluminous. Take for seasoning and adjust as needed. This sauce is enough for two pizzas, so stash one part in the freezer for next time.

When the oven is good and hot, sprinkle with cheese, uniformly covering the surface. Place in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, or until the cheese is browned and bubbly.

Take the pizza out of the oven and spread the sauce all over the cheese, covering completely. Place back in the oven for 2-3 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool for a couple of minutes before cutting into pieces. Scatter with basil leaves. Serve while piping hot.

Happy eating, -s